While sat watching the fire burn, smoke started pouring out of the woodburner door…. Add more dry wood, get it hot….nope, open all the vents get the flames up…nope… throw firefighters in…a whole pack….nope…. smoke starts billowing out of the door, the window, and now the flue joints…even at the bottom of the flue…..evacuate The Hermitage, remove cot mattress, baby, child, random things affected by smoke damage, turn the soup off the boil, remove kettles to avoid them boiling dry…go back inside, wondering what on earth could have caused the woodburner (at only three days old), to react in such an aggressive manner….half an hour later stood half in, half out, unsure what to do next notice the baffle on the flue is closed, tight…firm shut…..allowing no smoke out…. Open baffle to watch the fire roar to life, the smoke pouring out of the windows and door starts to turn to wisps, and instead comes billowing out of the flue, in the manner it should… Just as the sun comes out… And the temperature soars outside for the first time all week, and so we have an enormous woodburner full of wood capable of melting the polar ice cap…luckily the sun being out means we have enough solar to power a fan, so we can suck up and blow out the smoke which fills the inside..(oh the irony). The rest of today has been spent moving horses, sadly waving the fat pony goodbye, seeing a friend in the Camara to arrange a stall for the Xmas craft markets, arrange for firewood to be dropped off using a badly drawn map (sorry andy) sign language, Portuguese to make a 3 year old feel ashamed and the agreement to place a stick in the ground painted (salmon pink) to mark the track for our Quinta, collect 40 litres of water from the font, use the car to chase the huge orange thunder horse away from the fenceline in the hope he will soon give up his questionable advances at Tonto and his doe eyes, feed horses and dogs for a friend, collect some hay, eat soup, eat baked banana and chocolate cooked in the woodburner, make a bed for Tom, cut up wire to make pan hooks for the ladder above the sink, question whether it should sound so normal when you hear Andy say to Tom (not for the first time this week) ‘Tom please stop howling, its making the dogs bark’, massage the baby, sing, dance, open the bottle of champagne we were given by lovely friends for oscars birth because now is the first time its seemed there is time to drink it before falling asleep into a heap in bed. And some other stuff in between… :)
Can plans change any faster? I suppose its to be expected that in a naturally developing (non) planned house build they will change frequently, and its good as it shows we are considering all angles to ensure we do the right thing at the right time, not so much a change of plan, more a change of route.
After visiting friends the other morning with their roundhouse still in working progress we have decided to build exactly that (it was stunning to see!) still as planned but not rush to do it before winter, or before anytime really, just to build it and let it develop as it should, taking our time, as and when we have the money and importantly after the first rains have come. When it rains here, it rains, so we can see how the land fairs when they first hit and ensure our chosen spot is good.
Once this is done we will flatten the spot and slowly, slowly start with the frame. When you are juggling feeding a new baby, stopping dogs from getting lost, horses from escaping, a 5 year old who deserves as much attention as possible after the last six months he’s had, (soon to be) rain/punishing heat, eating and sleeping it leaves us with about 10 minutes 45 seconds to build per day, so we might be some time….
In the meantime we are going to do a quick conversion on the stone barn, at 10m x 5m it is bigger than the 2 bed house-sit we are living happily in anyway and at least gives us the head start with new roof and solid walls… It has an earth floor, no water and no electricity of course, but once the solar is running, and the pump is pumping water from up the hill it’ll be ok, and with a mezzanine bedroom and a window knocked out will be a lovely space, it also is at the very easiest part of our land to access so no need to spend time building roads yet either. All in all, much better and much less pressure. We have found a slate supplier who can cover the entire floor for 140€ which is a bargain and will be perfectly in keeping with the space, we then will make a bathroom with partition wall, and will make two window frames to fill the holes which have been slated over, it will be a basic conversion as we don’t want to spend money on something that just needs to protect us from the elements, we don’t want to be too comfy or we will never get on with the ‘real’ build. Once we have moved out, we can add some finishing touches, render the walls etc and it will be a stunning holiday let for spring/summer and workshop space. It’s very exciting, I’ve always wanted to build and design our very own ‘tiny house’ and it looks like we have the added bonus of now doing so!
The plans for there ‘big house’ are looking great too, thanks to the huge patience, ideas and love given by a soul sister friend who works on planning projects for Eco builds we are getting more confident that the plans we had in our head will work as hoped, currently to save it from sounding so daunting and technical she and I are using cakes as ways to describe the effects on a house or ways to see structures… Like a battenburg we will only have windows and doors on either pink or yellow squares, but not both… Like a cheesecake we will ensure the ground is level and tampered down solid… Cakes and house design should be applied together much more often, as should cakes mechanics, I would learn so much faster!
So with pressure off it means we can really enjoy the build and not stress, we will be building a stable area still for the horses and to store the things which are currently in the barn in for winter, tools etc etc and while the digger is there we will be building an experimental dew pond for water collection and for the horses to drink/wade in on hot days, I’ve always wanted to try one, so now is as good a time as any and it means we can use it as an example of what/what not to do for one of the workshops next spring, with current world unrest it feels more important than ever to be examining methods of water collection without using more typical rainwater harvesting methods which are already becoming illegal in some US states.
I digress…We have found a place which sells old telegraph poles very cheaply, these will form the henge part of the roundhouse, we have to go and chainsaw them and then move them ourselves…in Portugal you can’t carry anything which is longer than your vehicle legally, meaning we need a trailer or a long vehicle to carry the 4 metre lengths which we need for the build but I’m sure we will overcome this soon enough… You can have an electrical power cable 2ft off the ground in a children’s park, inviting them to (as Tom did) to swing off it (thankfully it was insulated with thin plastic along all but a foot either end of it so he’s still alive today… but safety first, you can not carry things longer than the car, because that, would be dangerous. We also need some long length poles cut and delivered for the roof poles, we can get Douglas Fir here and eucalyptus in abundance of course, but it all takes time… Unlike in the UK, where you pop along to a huge depot which sells everything you need under one roof, or you call and order a delivery in for the next day, in Portugal its like going back in time, you order sand and cement from the builders yard, maybe tiles and bricks if you are lucky, or they will be somewhere up the road with someone else, then you go to the woodman, tell him what you need, a tree is chosen and (if they remember) that week it’ll be cut and processed and then delivered the following week, then you go along the road again to the fence post place and order these, they all come with delivery generally but it means you’re at the mercy of people remembering, and when you have accounted for the fact that everywhere shuts for their 3 hour daily lunch break and you have no address for delivery anyway its a fairly lengthy process to undertake. Here like in ‘the good old days’ people don’t call on the phone (most don’t answer or have such a crap phone line it’s not worth it) you drive to and visit the person who’s services you need, it’s wonderful, much more meaningful than placing faceless phone orders, but takes much, much more time… Luckily the relaxed attitude in west Cornwall and the even more relaxed approach from most of the tipi material suppliers means we are well versed in this coming Tuesday meaning next Friday without any warning at all.
So for now, we continue our cake/house design and we will be making the barn habitable ASAP. The long term plan is to have a round house with living space, kitchen, sitting area and dining room, connecting via a glass walkway to the courtyard and a second straw bale, cob wall hallway to a second roundhouse which will be the bedrooms. The cob wall walkway will be north facing and will be pantry and boot room and the glass walkway will be south facing and will heat the house in winter and will be another growing space. It’ll be wonderful to see it take shape over the course of winter and spring!
In the meantime today we have had more of our stuff arrive today and have been getting ready for the official move tomorrow. The horses will be loaded at 8am all being well thanks to a lovely new friend carol who has a trailer and is happy to help us with the two hour round trip, they can then get to work shortening the horrible spiky dry grass which cuts your feet as you walk through the field. As our short-short term accommodation we have set up a bug 5m bell tent and will create an outdoor kitchen and shower and loo sometime tomorrow, along with setting the well pump up (once we have the 200metres of pipe needed and something to pump the water too) and getting the solar power sorted.
In other events this week, life is settling down, we are getting used to the heat, its still mid 30’s most days, but we hide from the heat in the afternoon. We have been to see friends for the last few evenings, and had a lovely time, we are socialising more now than since I was about 25, and love every second. There is talk of Pygmy goats, Estrela dogs and fluffy kittens on the horizon, we have pretty much already agreed to take in a lovely little cat who is currently a few hours up the road after being rescued from the streets by a friend…the zoo is taking shape :) – It feels weird to have been here nearly three weeks and only just be going ‘home’ needless to say, we can not wait though, we are desperate to watch the sunrise and set and be nearer to the people we have grown to know and already love!
Here below are pics of the short temporary home, before the medium temporary home is finished. I shall take regular pics of the progress, hoping we can have this building ready in the next two weeks, which is incredibly ambitious but it wouldn’t be us if we didn’t set stupid deadlines for things!!!
The campsite temporary home before the temporary barn home.
Our shade thanks to a big old olive tree
Preparing the ground for the tent
Setting up camp
Home for a while
Yesterday was manic, we went from having only two bags to having 90% of our stuff, the two dogs, two horses, two tortoises and a car in a matter of hours! The dogs arrived at 3am and then at first light Andy and the van man unloaded our stuff, we knew it hadn’t all fitted, but were a bit dismayed to find in the back of the van (which we had paid to have filled up from empty) was a cooker and a large sideboard which weren’t ours, equating probably to the same weight and size as the stuff which was left behind, van man said he forgot it was in there… Gradually as we are unpacking things we are realising what hasn’t made it out yet, and what has… It seems we have curtains, ornaments, plates and cutlery, lampshades, didgeridoo, baking trays and cake tins, and no dog bowls, cool box, garden and diy tools… We are hoping our old neighbour can load it onto a pallet for us and ship it to the van mans UK address so he can bring it over (for the special price of an extra £150 – soon to be up for discussion) in a months time, not much use really, but we have little choice but to wait. One thing is for sure we will be loading up the big wooden mushrooms I sadly had to leave behind and getting him to bring those too, without asking first.
All belongings unloaded by 9am, and I got a text to tell me the horses had loaded at 7.30am and were on their way, Jan and her husband were picking them up from Sophie who has been caring for Tonto since he arrived in Portugal and was bringing him and Misty over on the long drive around the mountain, Jans husband kindly agreed to drive the car we bought from Sophie over too, saving us a long return drive to and from and meaning we finally had a car again!!! At about 9.30am I had a call from Jan saying they were here and at the top of our drive!!!! So with the electric fence still in a heap in the middle of the road where it was unloaded I headed up the lane along with the dogs (who are thrilled to have acres to run on!) leaping at my feet, to see my beloved boy and latest addition! The trailer couldn’t make the turning into the farm so we unloaded at the top and walked them down the long drive, Tonto unloaded like a star and thankfully was calm as usual with me as in my haste I had thrown on only flip flops! Not much protection from stomping hooves! Jan held the horses and we all hurriedly started stabbing plastic fence posts into the hard ground and untwisting fence tape, in about an hour we had a rough paddock set up and hooked it up to a battery and the boys could be let loose together for the first time, Tonto getting predictably dramatic and screeching at the top of his voice, Misty grumpily putting him in his place with a swift kick in return! I think they will be firm friends, Misty is adorable, the perfect story book example of a child’s pony, titchy, cute, plump (to put it kindly), very sweet natured but with a naughty look in his eye :)
Once the boys were settled we headed on out to take get a lock for the barn door on our farm, the keys have been lost, not aided by Francisco the 92 year old farmer we bought from having had a fall and being in hospital so we needed to break into the barn and then replace the lock with one of our own. Josh and Jamie our friends who found the farm for us had the paperwork deeds and some keys for a new lock on the farm gate which they’d put on the day before so we arranged to pick up the deeds and keys while we were nearby, (I should add that the house we are house sitting at is about 60k from the people we know and Penamacor and where our land is, and by the time you have wound your way through the hairpin turns its a good hour long drive each way) we set off and got a message from Josh to say to meet at Pam and Marks place (our friends with the Tipis) and when we arrived there was a house full! Typically Portugal :) more lovely people to meet and some familiar faces to catch up with too! What was supposed to be a quick drop in ended up being a four hour visit, Tom loved playing with two of the visiting boys and we managed to get a tel number for someone who has a van and might help us move the stuff which came on pallets from Josh and Jamie’s farm to ours, saving us about 40 trips in an overloaded car, the van people also being folk who have built a reciprocal roof house just like the one we wish to build next month, so we can pick their brains!
We finally pulled ourselves away from our new friends and headed off to our farm, the sun was starting to set by the time we arrived, another sight we had yet to witness in our new home, now it was cooling down we could all go for a stroll around, exploring and finding yet more fruit trees, and oaks, the whole of one side of the farm is lined with oak trees, we paced out an area to build our winter home and are confident we can create a nice space which we can build on a budget, fingers crossed it shouldn’t take too long to build with some help. The views took a whole new look as the sun turned the sky deep orange and then red and sunk behind the mountains, you can’t see it here in the pics below but from the site we hope to build our house we have a view over Penamacor old town and the castle on top of the hill, it’s beautiful!
By the time we left the land and got home it was 10pm and dark, our crossed fingers worked and the horses hadn’t escaped their fencing, so with a last run around in the garden for the dogs and both children fast asleep being ferried from car to house we all crashed out for the night. Tom has fallen asleep in the back of the car three times since we moved here, something he hasn’t done in years, while still half asleep getting out of the car yesterday he opened one eye and said ‘Portugal YAYYY! – you are like a birds nest, you keep me safe and warm’ which pretty much sums up how I hoped he would fee about the move :) I’m sure the sunshine, swimming pool and pony have helped his opinion though!
Swimming pool fun!!
Hero the cat and Sheeba the dog, Pipette is camera shy
The furry family reunited
Sunset at Enchanted Acres
Grapes galore! We should be able to make a lot of wine here!
View from where our house hopefully will be
Our new car